The focus of the regularly occurring series “When in Rome” is the city beyond the Janiculum, coming directly from those who have spent time in Rome—including fellows, residents, staff, and more. Selections typically include: quiet places or off-the-beaten-path locations; specialty shops or stores; cafés and restaurants; parks or green spaces; and views or vistas.
This month we highlight the favorite places of our Italian Fellows, who come to the Academy from across Italy and bring with them a unique perspective that enriches the experience of AAR’s community. This special mixing helps dissolve cultural barriers between the Academy and the city of Rome and creates lifelong transnational friendships.
I love Garbatella, a part of Rome away from the main attractions where you feel like you’re in another city—maybe in another country. Full of green gardens and low houses, it gives the impression of a holiday location. Its particular smell invites you to rest for an hour in an outdoor cafe, enjoying the quietness of this special place.
—Giorgia Zanellato (2015 Italian Affiliated Fellow in Design)
2. Said dal 1923
Via Tiburtina, 135
Imagine a chocolate factory and a restaurant all in one. Be sure to try Said’s caponata di melanzane with cocoa and—if you are into eating animal products—their amazing handmade pasta with a wild boar, ground cocoa, and raisin sauce. It’s also a nice place to have hot chocolate if you visit the main campus of the University of Rome La Sapienza.
—Emilio Rosamilia (2018 Italian Fellow in Ancient Studies)
3. Piazza Margana
Piazza Margana, 21
Piazza Margana is a small, elongated square hidden behind Piazza d’Aracoeli. Walking along via Margana or via di Tor Margana, you will suddenly feel as if in a quiet borgo, surrounded by old palaces and terraces filled with plants and bathed in sunlight. Look for the medieval tower and Roman marble spolia incorporated in the building complex once belonging to the Margani family, then sit down for a drink or lunch in one of the piazza’s restaurants.
—Silvia Armando (2017 Italian Fellow in Medieval Studies)
Via Gregoriana, 41
Giustini/Stagetti is a sophisticated gallery in the very center of the city specializing in both twentieth-century Italian design and international contemporary design. Every time it offers an interesting perspective on design. If you ask, they’re happy to explain the history of the exhibited pieces!
5. Cimitero Acattolico di Roma
Via Caio Cestio, 6
Where you can meet Antonio Gramsci.
6. Discoteca di Stato, Palazzo Mattei di Giove
Via Michelagelo Caetani, 32
Where you can find the voice of the Pope.
7. “L’Obitorio” ai Marmi
Viale Trastevere, 53
Where you can meet the ’70s.
8. Laghetto di Villa Borghese
Where you can meet Renato Zero.